How to Use a Sewing Machine

Using a sewing machine is not as difficult as it seems. The basics of machine sewing are the same no matter what make or model machine you use. Practice on some scrap fabric, at first, until you get the feel and coordination of using your sewing machine. Even though there are a lot of details, everything will soon become second nature.

Steps

1. 1
   Place the machine on a sturdy table, counter, or sewing cabinet in front of you. Sit in a chair that is a comfortable height for the height of the table. Arrange the machine so that the needle end is on your left and the body of the machine is on the right. You will be checking a couple of things first and getting to know the machine a bit, so don't plug it in just yet.
   
   
   

    Set up a work area.
2. 2
   Install a needle securely. Needles have a flat side, so they can only go one way, usually with the flat side toward the back. There is a groove down one side of the needle, generally opposite the flat side of the shank––this groove must be facing the direction from which the needle is threaded when installing the needle (the thread rides in this groove while going up and down through the fabric.) Insert a needle all the way into the post and tighten the thumbscrew securely. If your machine already has a needle, check that it is straight, sharp, and securely inserted.
   
   
   

    Sewing machine needles have a flat side on the base.
   

    Tighten this thumbscrew securely against the needle.
3. 3
   Identify the presser foot, which is the ski-shaped part that holds the fabric down. Make sure that a basic one like in the photo is installed and that the thumbscrew is snug.
   
   
   

    1. The presser foot is the ski-shaped part that presses the fabric down. 2. The feed dog is the toothed part that moves against the fabric to advance it. 3. The thumbscrew that holds the presser foot. Make sure it's snug before sewing.
   • Find the presser foot lever and practice raising and lowering the presser foot. It will be a lever to the right or back of the needle assembly. Move it all the way down and all the way up.
     
     
     

      Practice raising and lowering the presser foot.
4. 4
   Wind and insert the bobbin. A machine uses two thread sources, a top thread and a lower thread, stored on a bobbin. Follow the link above for detailed instructions on winding and inserting a bobbin.
   
   
   

    Wind and insert the bobbin.
5. 5
   Thread the sewing machine. Follow the link for details or consult your manual if you have it.
   
   
   

    Thread the sewing machine.
   • You may also be able to follow the guides printed on your machine.
   • Usually, the thread follows this general pattern: "left, down, up, down, into a hook, through the needle." Another way to know how to thread the machine is "Spool pin, tension, take-up lever, needle, using thread guides provided between these parts". The spool pin holds the spool of thread; the tension controls how easily the thread is pulled off the spool; the take-up lever takes the extra length of thread, that was needed to loop the upper thread around the bobbin case, back up, preparatory to making the next stitch.
   • The needle might be threaded from the left, the right, or from front to back. If it is already threaded, that is a clue to the direction; if not, the last thread guide before the needle, is located nearest to the direction from which you must thread the needle.
   • If your machine doesn't have threading directions, try typing the machine brand and model number into a search engine. Many companies have posted this critical information online.
6. 6
   Raise the bobbin thread.
   • Hold the end of the upper thread that passes through the needle with your left hand.
   • Turn the hand wheel on the upper right side of machine. Generally, you will turn it so that you move the top toward yourself. Turn it one full revolution.
     
     
     

      Turn the balance wheel...
   • Pass a pair of scissors between the presser foot and plate to pull both loops of thread up. You should now have the ends of two threads, one from the needle and one coming up from below.
     
     
     

      ...and pass scissors under the presser foot.
7. 7
   Plug the machine in and turn it on. Many sewing machines have a built-in light, which is often a good way to tell whether there is power to the machine. The power switch will usually be on the right side or back of the machine, if there is one. Some machines don't have a separate switch, in which case they're turned on as soon as they're plugged in.
   
   
   

    Plug the machine in.
   • Plug the pedal into the machine, too. Place the pedal in a comfortable spot under your feet.
8. 8
   Practice on some scrap material first. Choose a simple, woven material, not a knit one, for your first sewing experience, since knits can be stretchy and harder to handle. Cut up an old shirt, sheet, or pillowcase if you don't have any scrap fabric sitting around.
   
   
   

    Some scrap material, a simple, cotton weave.
   • Don't use a very heavy fabric for your first attempts at machine sewing. Denim and flannel can be hard to sew because they are too thick when several layers are piled together.
9. 9
   Pin two pieces of fabric, right sides together, near the edge. The seam will go 1/2 inch (1.3cm) to 5/8 inch (1.5cm) from the edge. You can sew a single layer of fabric (and might do so to stop an edge from fraying, say), but since the goal of most machine sewing is to join two pieces of fabric, you should get used to sewing with a couple of layers and pins.
   
   
   

    Pin along an edge, as shown.
   • Fabric is pinned right sides together so that the seam allowance will end up on the inside. The "right" side is whichever side of the fabric you will want on the outside when the piece is done. On printed fabric, it is generally the side with brighter colors. Solids may not have an obvious right side.
   • Place the pins perpendicular to the line where the seam will go. You can sew right over straight pins, and still remove them later with no damage to the machine, the fabric, or the pins. It is safer to remove pins just before stitching reaches them, as accidentally striking a pin will break, or at least dull the needle. Avoid sewing over the heads of the pins, however.
     
     
     

      You can sew right over pins, except for the heads, or you can remove the pins just before you get to them.
   • While you're looking at the fabric, notice which way the fabric itself goes. Seams may go any direction, but most sewing projects are cut so that the main seams go parallel with the lines of the weave. Also note the direction of the print if your fabric has one, and arrange it so it will be "right side up" such as with a floral or animal print or so that stripes or other patterns run a certain direction.
10. 10
    Use the hand wheel at the top of the right side of the machine to move the needle to the top of its travel before starting a seam and again to remove the fabric from the machine at the end of a seam. If the needle is not at the top of its travel, the thread may not move when you pull on the ends.
11. 11
    Select a straight stitch and a medium stitch length. Consult your manual for how to do this on your machine. On this machine, stitches are set by rotating the lower knob on the right side of the machine until it clicks into place. Always set the stitch with the needle up and out of the fabric, since it may move the needle.
    
    
    

     A selection of stitches. Numbers 2 and 3 are straight stitches.
    • A straight stitch is used to sew most seams. The next most common stitch is the zigzag, usually used to prevent edges from fraying.
12. 12
    Line up the fabric under the needle.
    
    
    

     Line up the fabric under the needle.
    • Sew with the bulk of the material to the left of the machine. Crowding that bulk on the right side can cause messy stitching.
    • Look for lines on your sewing machine indicating seam allowance. This is the "normal" space between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line. Generally, you should use the line at 5/8" (1.5cm) or 1/2" (1.3cm). Use a ruler measure on either side of the needle. This should already be marked on your machine's "throat plate" (the flat metal piece that the needle goes through). If not, mark it yourself with masking tape.
13. 13
    Lower the presser foot onto the fabric. There is a lever behind or to the side of the needle assembly that raises or lowers the presser foot.
    
    
    

     Lower the presser foot.
    • If you give the fabric a gentle tug while the presser foot down, you'll feel that the machine grips it pretty firmly. While you sew, the machine uses a feed dog under the presser foot to advance the fabric at the correct speed. There's no need to pull the fabric through the machine; in fact, pulling can bend the needle or damage your project. You can adjust the speed and the stitch length on the machine.
14. 14
    Hold the loose ends of both threads. For the first few stitches, you'll need to hold these ends to keep them from retreating into the fabric. After you've stitched for a short distance, you can let go and use both hands to control the fabric and the machine.
    
    
    

     Ready to sew.
15. 15
    Press the foot pedal. The foot pedal is your speed control. Just like the gas pedal in a car, the harder you push it, the faster you will go. Push it slowly at first, just enough to get the machine going.
    
    
    

     Press the foot pedal down.
    • Your machine may have a knee bar rather than a foot pedal. If that's the case, use your knee to push it to the right.
    • You can use the balance wheel on the top, right side of the machine to get the machine spinning or to move the needle by hand.
    • The machine will advance the fabric automatically away from you. You can "steer" the fabric in a straight line or a curve by guiding it through the machine with your hands. Practice sewing in a straight line and try sewing some curves. The only difference is how you guide the fabric.
      
      
      

       Sew a curve by turning the fabric with your hands while you press the pedal. There's no need to hold the fabric up like this unless you're posing for a photo.
    • Do not force the material or pull the material while it is going under the needle. This can cause the material to stretch or the needle to break, or the stitches to clog up in the bobbin. If you feel like the fabric is not moving fast enough, press the foot pedal harder, adjust the stitch length, or (if you must) buy a faster machine.
16. 16
    Find the reverse button or lever and try it. It reverses the direction that the machine feeds, so that the fabric travels toward you as the machine sews. Often, this button or lever is spring-loaded, so you must hold it down to sew in reverse.
    
    
    

     The reverse button.
    • At the end of a seam, sew a few stitches in reverse back over the last few stitches you just made. This finishes the seam and helps keep it from pulling out.
      
      
      

       A few back stitches will keep this seam in place.
17. 17
    Use the hand wheel to move the needle to its highest position. Then, raise the presser foot. The fabric should pull out easily. If the thread pulls back when you try to remove the fabric, check the needle position.
    
    
    

     The fabric should release easily.
18. 18
    Cut the thread. On many machines, there is a small notch on the back of the post that holds the presser foot. You can hold both ends of the thread and draw it down over this notch to cut the thread. If you don't have such a notch or you would like a cleaner cut, usescissors to trim the thread. Leave a tail extending from the machine for your next seam.
    
    
    

     Trim the thread. The inset shows a closeup of the notch.
19. 19
    Learn to sew a sharp corner.
    • Where you want to turn the corner, lower the needle all the way into the fabric. You can use the hand wheel to lower the needle.
      
      
      

       Lower the needle all the way into the fabric.
    • Raise the presser foot. Leave the needle down, in the fabric.
      
      
      

       Raise the presser foot.
    • Rotate the fabric to the new position, leaving the needle in it.
      
      
      

       Rotate the fabric.
    • Lower the presser foot with the fabric in the new position.
      
      
      

       Lower the presser foot.
    • Resume sewing in a new direction.
      
      
      

       Resume sewing.
20. 20
    Try a simple project. When you have made an assortment of test seams and start to feel comfortable with the basics, try sewing a pillow, pillow case, or cloth gift bag.